As the creation of two former Noma staffers, Relæ was one of Copenhagen's most hotly anticipated new restaurants when it opened in late summer 2010. Set in a multi-ethnic part of town, the focus here is not on finery, fanciness or frills, but food that's brilliant, unfussy, and globally-inspired (chef Christian Puglisi put in time at both El Bulli and Noma). If the thought of using the same wine glass throughout dinner (even if you switch from white to red) sends shivers up your spine, this Relæ ain't for you. But if you like the sound of noble gastronomic innovation (including *gasp* a dedicated vegetarian menu) at affordable prices, then Relæ darling, get here.