Don't come asking for Paul or Jimmy, they're long gone, although the Italian family that's been running things since the '60s is still thriving. Kitchen balances contemporary and traditional. Prix fixe lunch and dinner let you mix and match your way through eggplant rollatini, baked clams, veal scaloppini, poached sole. Finish with cannoli, spumoni, or tortoni. Décor walks the fussy/classy line, with floral-backed chairs and walls mottled like crème brûlée. However standard the interior, family establishment always makes the welcome feel personal.