Although he may be a native of Portugal, host Marcellino’s gastronomic heart lies Italy. Pasta specialties, like stuffed baubles with pecorino cheese on truffle sauce, are favorites of regulars who make the 20-minute tramway trek from Central Station for an elegant and rather upscale night in the white table-clothed dining room or inviting garden. Portugal does, however, figure in the wine list, lovingly recommended by the man himself.