A burgeoning scene has to have its allies, and way-cool local lady Cotton Ding is as good as they get. Cotton's is her clubhouse. Situated in a rambling former French Concession villa, this friendly bar enjoys a split spring/summer-autumn/winter personality. When the evenings are warm, the large, tree-filled garden and terrace has its own bar for al fresco conviviality. Come winter, locals and expats disperse throughout the various rooms over two floors and huddle around the crackling, wood- burning fireplaces. By no means a gay bar, everyone is welcome and truly, everyone comes.